LiL ole half table that was headed for the heap pile | ||
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Posted 11 years ago
Aimathena
(600 items)
This poor little ole table was tossed out, and sitting in an alley in Baltimore City awaiting pickup from the refuge truck. My father in law saved it because he knew I would love it.... and he was right.
I have not done anything to it, as I do not know how to refinish furniture.
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=^) Thanks for the Love MSL xo
No need to refinish, some people go to great lengths to give an item the distressed look that this already has.
Thanks for the Love and advice walksoftly =^)
Is there only the one loose part? pic 4
As far as the eye can see, but... it is very wobbly.
To fix any loose joints there are glues made to repair them without taking them apart.
Here is a link to one brand that would work well on tables as well.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30261&cat=1,110,30261
=^) Thank you very much walksoftly, much appreciated!!
Glad to help :-)
The link took me to a main page. I typed glue into the search bar http://www.leevalley.com/en/home/Search.aspx?action=n will you tell me which one to purchase, please?
I'm not sure why it didn't work, it's called Chair Doctor glue
Thanks again... I really appreciate the help/advice walksoftly =^)
I appreciate you taking time to give advice eyeforbeauty and I truly wish it was as simple as rotating the angle of the lense. Unfortunately its due to the screen being shattered
Well there's your problem! lol
I both agree and disagree on the glue. The one joint you are showing has damage and broken wood. It is a tenon joint and if the actual joint is severed inside the mortise it creates a problem. Also this table is old enough so it was probably originally glued up with hot hide glue. Chair doctor glue works by penetrating a solid joint, swelling it and bonding it. However, it won't penetrate where hot hide glue has been applied previously. It will work but the joint will creep. This isn't as big a problem with a table as it is a chair because of the difference in use. Chair doctor glue is great stuff in many applications and really does work. The broken/damaged wood and age of the table might not make that my glue of choice for this particular joint.
LoL yes... I have a major case of the dropsies -.O
Thanks for the Love...
Vetraio50
fhrjr2.. can I email you some more detailed photos?
The advice was for all the joints on the table not just the open joint shown, the only glue that will get into a closed joint is a highly viscous (thin) glue, another choice would be a viscous epoxy. To me the tenon looks intact & there may just be some debris in the open joint, but it is hard to certain from the quality of the photo.
David
That is the good part about hide glue. It runs and it can be heated to run more freely and can be brushed or injected with a glue syringe, it will also bond to old hide glue. When it dries the wood itself will break before the glued joint. I fully agree that your glue will work fine in most cases and do a suitable job. Being old world and doing lots of glue ups I just have different glues for different types of projects. I buy hide glue by the gallon and other glues and epoxies a few ounces at a time. I have to stand behind what I do so I am kind of set in my ways where the average homeowner just wants it done. I need to think about, what if this ever needs to be done again? Some glues like hide glues are reversible others are not so if you use them on an antique and it creeps or fails the entire piece attached will be lost and require replacement. Just my two cents.
Ok guys... I've taken more photos. I hope the details are not lost in the upload/posting stages.
=^) Thanks for the Love...
Phil
toolate
Doc
xo
=^) Thanks for the Love Amber xo
I have this very same one! Beautiful!! =)
=^) Awww that's great Tom... I would love to see it. If you find time... you can email some photos aimathena@gmail.com
=^) Thanks for the Love...
Amber
Tom
gargo
xo
You are very welcome Aimathena! =)
The tenon joint is an easy repair and will hold if it is done right. This had a nail going into end grain. That is the weakest point and it doesn't work. I'm not sure if I can explain this so you understand but will try. First, get the nail out but don't pound it out the way it was nailed in. Use needle nose pliers and see if you can either pull it straight out through the hole or even snap it off deep in the back of the hole. If you try pushing or pounding it out the way it was nailed in you will cause surface damage where the head of the nail is. If it is a finish nail it will pull through fairly easily.
Now for a moment lets assume the tenon is 3/4" in diameter. DO NOT plug the tenon into the hole yet. Go to the back side of the leg and mark a spot half way up on the mortised hole. All you need is a square and a pencil. The mark also needs to be where when you drill a hole it will be about 1/2" in from where the shoulder of the tenon meets the leg. From the back side where your mark is drill an 1/8" hole through and far enough past the opening where you enter the front of the leg but do not go more than 1/2" into the front portion of the leg. You are making this drill hole WITHOUT the tenon in the hole. Once the hole is done plug the tenon in but do not clamp just hold it firmly in place. Now you need a pointed item that will fit in the hole you drilled don't use the drill, we just want a mark on the tenon. If a ball point pen refill will fit use that. Now you unplug the tenon and find the mark. The mark is where the hole is but NOT where you will drill the tenon. You need to use the same drill bit but when you drill the tenon make the hole slightly before the mark toward the shoulder of the tenon NOT toward the end of the tenon. Then plug the tenon back in. If you did it right the holes WILL NOT line up, that is what we want. Now you are ready to get to work. Get a 1/8" hardwood dowel. Home Depot has them and make sure it is long enough so you will have waste. If you have a pencil sharpener, sharpen one end of the dowel. Otherwise just whittle a point on it. Now unplug the tenon and use your glue both in the hole and on the tenon and plug it back in. Put some glue on the dowel and put the pointed end of the dowel in the hole and the point you whittled will locate the offset hole. Now you need to use a mallet or hammer to drive the dowel through the tenon and into the other side of the leg. As the dowel is driven into the offset holes it will pull the joint tight together . DO NOT clamp it, the dowel will keep everything tight. Applying a clamp might fracture the dowel. Wipe up glue that comes out and let everything set up. Once it dries you can cut off the end of the dowel that sticks out and sand it flush. I can't see the other broken joint well but looks like a similar situation but there was a glue block added to the inside. Depending on the type joint that might be a bit more work to repair.
=^) Thanks for the Love...
Gargo
Hunter
Sean
Pops
Van
And fhrjr thank you for the very detailed repair instructions
322 mahagany corner desk 8724
Corner desk???
:^P I enjoyed it. LoL
I've got a couple of posts coming up for you fhrjr =^)
I wouldn't list this as a corner desk unless you live in a round house. Where I am from it is a half moon or half round foyer table. They took up less room in a narrow space.
LoL... exactly. But corner desk was fun and got you going this fine morning ;^)
I keep trying to post more furniture but lose my internet signal before its completely uploaded
Sounds like you have a bad provider or are using a wireless connection
Cell phone... have to run from room to room to catch up to the signal. LoL just kidding
=^) Thanks for the Love freiheit
I have one of these in my attic!! Great find and save from the trash!!
Tom and junkmanjoe, will you consider posting your tables like this one?
Yes i will consider! have to get my lazy butt in the attic and pull the down to take a picture for you!
Thank you for the love...
Antiq