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davyd286's likes127 of 302Arts and Crafts (?) turquoise sterling pendant and chain. Mark HJH pieced by arrow.Carved Glass and Silver Art Deco Brooch
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    Posted 9 years ago

    TinyT
    (24 items)

    Im trying to find some more information about this broach, its made from sterling silver and has gem stones which i previously thought were garnet, now not sure if the are tourmaline as they seem to be quite included.

    If anyone can offer any assistance i would be very greatful.

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    Comments

    1. kyratango kyratango, 9 years ago
      Wow! Superb work and brooch!
      The ornate back makes me think Austro-Hungarian, but this don't fit with the sterling-silver mark.
      The stones furiously look like rhodolite /almandine garnets, with this purple pink hue!
    2. TinyT, 9 years ago
      Thanks !
    3. IVAN49 IVAN49, 9 years ago
      Cannot help much with the country of origin. ``Sterling silver`` mark was not very common in Continental Europe unless made for export (e.g. Austria after The Great War) but additional marks are expected. The stones could be amethysts. Extremely well done (star stone cut, settings and riveting). My benevolent and honest comments ``how it`s made`` (not in theory, I work in a jeweler`s workshop) are not always well accepted here, but in this case I can tell the brooch is absolutely of superb craftsmanship. And old, too, they seldom cut and set stones like this today, it does not pay off even with machines. Regards.
    4. TinyT, 9 years ago
      Thanks so much, have you any idea of the age? And thankyou for your expert opinion. I thought it was well made but its nice to hear from someone who knows.
    5. IVAN49 IVAN49, 9 years ago
      Unfortunately, without more marks it`s really impossible to tell. There are button shaped amethyst beads on the market, but I haven`t seen anything with star cut on top and pierced.Enjoy it!
    6. freiheit freiheit, 9 years ago
      The back looks to me similar to the ones of costume pieces (stamped brass) made in the 1920 -1940's. At least I have some from that time. I would think they were mostly made in Germany, Czechoslovakia, maybe Austria. Your brooch, however, is a lot nicer and silver. What throws me off is the front; it looks like a different style. But I am no expert:(
      Have I mentioned that I love it? It's beautiful!
    7. freiheit freiheit, 9 years ago
      That could be the reason why the style of the back and the front is so different, rucklczglass:)
    8. IVAN49 IVAN49, 9 years ago
      The second picture is out of focus.Difficult to tell how`s the front panel fixed to the back. I doubt it`s simply glued.Soft solder could be easily disclosed. Can you inspect the brooch carefully, paying attention to front-back union?
    9. Peasejean55 Peasejean55, 9 years ago
      https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/220285492/reserved-arts-crafts-zoltan-white
      I think your beautiful brooch was made by Zoltan White and Co. The link above shows a ring and tells you a little about his history. I hope this helps.
    10. TinyT, 9 years ago
      The brooch is made in two pieces, the front part consisting of the gem stones on a plate joined with silver ropes and the rear plate that has claws that hold the front gem plate on. The claws are the rows of balls you can see from the front.
      Its not glued or soldered im quite sure its just the claws that hold it on.
      The mark sterling silver is on the back of the central gem on the front plate and is visible through the hole in the back plate.
      I have had a look at Zoltan white and the style does look similar, but they appear to carry the logo ZW & Co, where as mine only says sterling silver.
      Also it seems to be alot more intricate on the back plate than the ZW&Co examples i have seen.
      Im trying to find out info on the mark as Sterling silver usually carried some other marks and 92.5. Where as this only has Sterling Silver !

      I feel personally that the both parts were made at the same time as one brooch, The window in the back reveals the sterling mark.
      And the whole thing matches in shape, you can see the light through the holes when you hold it up against the light. The front plate would be very weak without the back plate.

      I think the rivet like things in the center of the gems are asthetic to enhance the star cut gems. The reason i say this is because they appear to be loose, as though there is a ball on the front and a plate on the back of the gem. If you hold the brooch upside down they hang out a mm or so. So maybe they were designed to move and catch the light, a sort of twinkle.

      Regarding the mark , after a good examination there appears to be nothing else but the sterling silver mark on the back plate of the central gem.

      I will try and find more info out about the hallmark as there must have been a time period and country that used only the words sterling silver.
    11. IVAN49 IVAN49, 9 years ago
      Excellent observation Peasejean55 ! Many details support the maker being Zoltan White and Co. I think the mystery has been completely solved, both the maker and how it`s made (he did make brooches consisting of two parts). The way the front was fixed is genuine (now I see the claws). The stones could be garnets and not amethysts (difficult to tell based on pictures). The stones were probably imported from Bohemia.
    12. Peasejean55 Peasejean55, 9 years ago

      Sterling Silver is the silver mark that is used in the UK, which is where Zoltan White & Co made his jewellery. I collect Bernard Instones work, with most of his work it was only signed sterling Sliver, but his work is usually very distinctive, as In my personally opinion Zoltan White & Co work also is.
    13. Peasejean55 Peasejean55, 9 years ago
      Also I forgot to mention, if the jewellery is marked sterling silver there usually isn't another mark, because sterling silver stands for 925.
    14. kyratango kyratango, 9 years ago
      Kudos to Jean and Ivan!!!
      That's why it has the Austro-Hungarian feeling.
      Ivan, sure it hasn't amethyst color, Bohemian garnets are pyrope variety, and don't have that pink purple hue, rather red orange as an old wine :-)
    15. TinyT, 9 years ago
      Fantastic thank you for all of the assistance , i will let you know results once i have had the gems tested.
    16. TinyT, 8 years ago
      Its Rhodolite Garnet.
    17. kyratango kyratango, 8 years ago
      Yep, that's exactly what I thought :-)
    18. kyratango kyratango, 8 years ago
      Thanks for the follow up letting us know for sure.

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