Posted 7 years ago
cameosleuth
(15 items)
Although it is not gold--it smells of brass when warmed up by a little vigorous rubbing--the color and finish of this Deco era bracelet have held up well. Each of the 3 panels is set with a sapphire blue faceted glass or paste, bezel-set 'stone' framed in a border of alternating repousse geometrical shapes. This is echoed on either side by enameled decoration using black, white and green.
The stretches between panels are a bit like book chain. The links are flattened tubes, plain on one side, with scrolling repousse ornamentation on the other. They are joined in alternating orientation, so that there is design on the back as well as on the front. The links are held together by wires inserted from each end. These are very soft, as I learned the first time I tried to undo the very securely closing fold over clasp to remove the bracelet from my wrist. Fortunately, they are also soft enough to repair easily.
It may not be fine jewelry, but I, like H.M., for whom it was engraved on the back, think it's just fine anyway.
So many times I find descriptions of a certain piece so very difficult to cover each aspect of a piece and you have done that to perfection here! You got it all down to a tee in a single breath and best of all, it's an easy read ;) This is absolutely gorgeous! Great post.
Well written study of a beautiful piece, thanks Cameo. :)
I just looked closer at the piece and have to ask you...the lines inside of the HM, seems to me that this zigzag type of etching (?) is mainly from the turn of the century, give or take. Do you agree with that and is the origin from any specific area of the world that you know of? My guess is European, but that's so vast... I'd just like to pin point if at all possible.
Thank you Passion & Katherine for your kind words about my writing. Passion's questions about the lettering style of the initials is a challenge to both my language and photographic skills, but I am going to put up a supplemental post with my best shot at capturing the engraving.
Hope some of the other regulars, such as kyratango & Efesgirl will share their broader expertise on jewelry with us. My field is really cameos; what I know about jewelry more generally was picked up incidentally to that.
As to age & country of origin, think this is so solidly in the Deco style it would need to be from the height of that period, late 1920s into the 30s. As to where it was made, I can only guess. I find it easier to imagine good design in inexpensive materials coming out of the US, but... This is where we need one of the other CW experts. On to Part 2. :)
also Egyptian Revival style.
Since the Revival was inspired by the opening of King Tut's tomb in 1923, that gives us a starting point for the range of years during which the bracelet was made. Thanks PCC. :)
Thanks KatherineC, Vet, PCC & TassieD for the love.
In looking back at my records, see the seller speculated the bracelet is German, but did not say what this was based on. Had forgotten that when I first acquired it, someone had added a length of chain on each end with a spring ring clasp, evidently to enlarge it. Since it is too large for me in its original state (& the spring clasp was difficult to manage with one hand), I had those additions removed & the foldover clasp attached.
Passion - See Deco Bracelet, Part II, for my attempt to answer your questions about the engraving. :)
Some of the design ideas may have been inspired by Egypt; the bracelet itself definitely does not come from there. I have looked at a lot of Egyptian jewelry & own much more of it than I need. They do not seem to work in brass or gold-filled, use glass stones or employ enamel in any way.
On the other hand, a good deal of the jewelry offered on eBay as Egyptian Revival was actually made in Egypt, where I'm sure they would be surprised to know they need reviving.
Thank you again for the love. :)
Gorgeous, and I wish I had your knowledge! :)
With time & continued curiosity, you will. Thanks for loving this bracelet :)
Seller did say Germany, but very tentatively. I can find pieces more like it when looking for Bohemian Deco jewelry than for German. Somewhere, in an Austro-Hungarian Empire far, far away...
Hey, kyratango, have been waiting for you. Any thoughts on this one, particularly country/region of origin? Thanks for the love. You too, steptoe.
Valentino, This message is for Moonstonelover, in case she is still interested. Just came across this:
https://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/80013-antique-french-victorian-carved-cameo-ma
It is based on the famous sculpture known as the Apollo Belvedere.
Hey Cameosleuth! I feel it German, but it is only my guess ;-)
Hi Kyra, It may be a guess, but German seems to be the consensus position & I have no reason to think differently. I can see Sally Bowles (Cabaret) wearing it, except with real gold & sapphires, holding up her wrist & explaining, Divine decadence, darling.