Antique and Vintage Umbrellas and Parasols

The earliest umbrellas were designed to provide shade from the sun—the word’s Latin root “umbra” means shade or shadow—and versions were used among ancient societies in Assyria, China, Egypt, and Greece. However, it was the Chinese who first waterproofed their devices by waxing and lacquering paper parasols to give users additional protection from the rain. Umbrellas became increasingly popular in Europe during the 16th and 17th centuries, but a fashionable French design helped the accessory go mainstream, at least among women. In the early 1700s, the Parisian purse-maker Jean Marius designed a folding “pocket parasol” to help his stylish clients protect their expensive wigs from the elements. After an endorsement from Louis XIV, Marius’ invention received a royal privilege, giving him the exclusive rights to produce umbrellas in France for the next five years. However, many men still regarded the parasol as a feminine fad. British travel writer Jonas Hanway helped break the umbrella taboo in England after developing an affection for the parasol after a visit to France. Initially, Hanway’s adoption of the device inspired a strong backlash, particularly from coachmen or cab drivers who previously offered pedestrians one of few modes of escape in rainy weather, and as the accessory became more socially acceptable, parasols were sometimes called “hanways” due to the writer’s unusual propensity for carrying one. As the accessory became increasingly mainstream, umbrella handles were made from wood, metal, or even ivory, sometimes with an elaborately carved grip. In 1852, British Samuel Fox invented the steel-ribbed umbrella, replacing the heavier whalebone or cane-ribbed parasols, which sometimes weighed more than four pounds. Various folding styles also became popular in the later 19th century, as handles were lengthening and growing lighter as well. Well into the 19th century, upper-class women often carried parasols in any weather to protect their faces from the sun and prevent them from tanning, a sign of poverty. While most Victorian-era umbrellas were covered with a plain-colored cloth, some higher-end women’s styles included ornamental lace, ribbon ruching, feathers, or tassels along the edges. By the early 20th century, most parasols were longer and slimmer, and often covered in black silk, linen, or embroidered cotton. During the 1920s, Asian-influenced umbrellas, which appear flattened when fully open, became popular in the United States and Europe. These vintage umbrellas were frequently made with bamboo handles, narrow wooden ribbing, and covered in bright fabric with floral designs.