Antique and Vintage Wedding Rings

Though the tradition of wearing rings or bands to celebrate romantic relationships dates back thousands of years, it’s difficult to determine when ancient societies made a clear distinction between rings worn to signify betrothal or engagement status versus what we think of as wedding rings, binding two members of a legally married couple. Also known as nuptial, espousal, or marriage rings, these pieces of jewelry are typically linked to religious devotion and the role it plays in traditional marriage. Ancient Romans and Egyptians supposedly believed that a special vein, known as the vena amoris or vein of love, linked the fourth finger directly to the heart, giving it a symbolic appeal. However, customs for different fingers or hands took over at different times, like during the reign of George I of England when fashion dictated that wedding rings were worn on the thumb. Late Roman designs were often intricately carved with openwork lettering used to create a formal inscription. Byzantine marriage rings from the 6th and 7th centuries featured engravings depicting scenes linked to the Bible. Highly ornamental Jewish wedding rings were typically only worn for the nuptial ceremony, and included complex filigree decoration around the hoop with the roof of a miniature temple as their focal point. Many antique wedding rings incorporate obvious allusions to matrimony, such as those engraved with small busts—one male and one female—or romantic phrases, like the excerpts of verse or poetry seen on 15th-century posy rings, including “In me is fidelity,” “She holds me,” “God unites our hearts aright,” or “You have my heart.” Another popular style for antique wedding rings was the gimmal ring, which includes two separate rings that interlock around the finger; those featuring a pair of clasped hands at their center are known as fede rings. A more complicated version is the puzzle ring, which includes several separate hoops that appear as a single ring when fit together. In some eras, different materials were believed appropriate for men and women, either to symbolize stereotypical gendered attributes like strength and beauty, or to denote the lower financial value of women in certain societies. While vintage engagement rings are often bejeweled with diamonds and other gemstones, the most classic wedding ring is a plain band of precious metal, sometimes adorned with a simple engraving. This style became popular in England during the Tudor period, likely popularized after Queen Mary I chose a hoop for her wedding to Philip II of Spain. But today, such simple wedding rings are likely favored for their form, the smooth uninterrupted circle being a perfect symbol for everlasting love.