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Gold cloissanae and lapis ring

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IVAN49's loves157 of 272What I collect Most:Art Nouveau gold stickpin -- Emile Vernier
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    Posted 8 years ago

    cherman
    (1 item)

    Gold and clossinae thick band with lapis lazuli stone inlay. Acquired from a Canadian antiques dealer at Navy Pier in Chicago in the 1990's. Unable to find her information-named Cathy I believe. Roughly size 7 women's wedding finger.

    Unsolved Mystery

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    Comments

    1. cherman, 8 years ago
      There is a tiny mark on bottom outside band but cannot make it out.
    2. Efesgirl Efesgirl, 8 years ago
      Quite a ring!
    3. IVAN49 IVAN49, 8 years ago
      It`s champleve enameling:cells are carved in gold and filled with vitreous enamel.
      In cloisonne, cells are made of twisted wire. Regardless of Russian cloisonne popularity, champleve is nicer in jewelry. Beautiful piece.
    4. cherman, 8 years ago
      Wow! Thanks Ivan. Do you have an idea of origin and time period of when it may have been made?
    5. IVAN49 IVAN49, 8 years ago
      Assumption is not a method of judgement. Could be Continental Europe (e.g. France). Most likely second half 19th century.There is this small mark. Try to make better close up image and edit - replace image 4 in the post. Marks are the only way to positive identification.
    6. katherinescollections katherinescollections, 8 years ago
      cherman, if you re-take the photo of the hallmark, try using a magnifying glass or a loupe against the lens of the camera, take several photos and post the one or two that show the mark most clearly.
    7. cherman, 8 years ago
      Thanks for the tips folks. I did receive an email form someone suggesting they have seen this type of ring many times before and said it is a low gold ring filled with niello in section and a lapis gem on top. Any thoughts?
    8. IVAN49 IVAN49, 8 years ago
      Niello is something completely different. Black metal oxides.
      Champleve is vitreous enamel, glass powder fused to gold or silver at high temperatures.
      ‚‚Low gold‚‚ claim is exactly what I said - an unsupported assumption.
      Let`s concentrate on mark.
    9. cherman, 8 years ago
      Ok Ivan - Here is what I was told by the Medusa Art forum:

      14k is average in modern days but low considering the rings of the late 1800s-early 1900s which 18k was then considered low.

      Rings that do not include a carat mark indicate a very low count (even possibly metal inside covered with a sheet of gold) also common practice in the Medieval civilization.

      Use a strong magnet on your ring that will give you an idea if it's metal inside. It's not fool-proof but it's a good first step.

      So I just tried the magnet trick and nothing happens. I cannot make out the mark even with a loop. Trying to get a super closeup of it though.
    10. cherman, 8 years ago
      It's so minute that I cannot make out the mark.
    11. shareurpassion shareurpassion, 8 years ago
      I am struggling with the same thing myself! I'm going to kick for an appraiser on mine because of the potential value. I was already given a high value without knowing but the appraiser may just kick it up a notch or 20! ;)
    12. fhrjr2 fhrjr2, 8 years ago
      Buy a precious metal test kit on Amazon for $12 and you can test it in two minutes. It looks like plated costume jewelry from the 50's & 6o's. If you intend collecting this type stuff the test kit will do silver, gold & platinum and it the same test a jeweler uses. I use it mostly on silver but have done gold for friends.
    13. cherman, 8 years ago
      Ok thank you will do.
    14. IVAN49 IVAN49, 8 years ago
      Acid testing is reliable only if superficial layer is filed off deep enough to reach base metal (gold plated). The same either with applying acid directly or using black stone. It`s even worse with rolled gold and Old Sheffield Plate with much thicker layer of precious metals. In a word, acid testing is reliable only if the item is damaged. But there are electronic testers available. Jewelers are supposed to have them.
    15. IVAN49 IVAN49, 8 years ago
      In regard of gold standards. Austria - Hungary had 14 K and 18 K the latter being very rare. UK had higher standards but also 9 K. The only legal fineness in France is 18 K. So, claiming 19th century gold had higher fineness is simply not correct.
      Medieval gold is in museums.
    16. Karenoke Karenoke, 8 years ago
      IVAN49, speaks truth. Here's my story...
      Found a ring in thrift store that did not stick to a magnet. Paid the four bucks, brought it home and acid tested it and it tested over 18k. Took it to my jeweler and on sight he says that's not gold. He pointed out how you could see the shape of the actual ring and how it appeared to be covered in gold....and it was.
      Forgers are putting such a thick coat of gold over ? So that it's not magnetic.
      I learned a good lesson on the cheap that day. So the acid test is truth, but you have to rub off a fair amount of your gold to be sure.
    17. IVAN49 IVAN49, 8 years ago
      The mark looks like Austria - Hungary fox for 14 K.
      Compare with my brooch here:
      http://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/222121-vienna-gold-brooch?in=user
      In regard of magnet testing. Base metals are not iron alloys but copper, zinc alloys which do not stick.
      Try electronic testing elsewhere and tell us.
    18. fhrjr2 fhrjr2, 8 years ago
      You are 100% right about the acid test. It is simply a starting point and the same point the jeweler would begin with. I suspect if a jeweler examined this ring he would hand it back without testing it. If you enlarge the photo's of this piece it speaks of costume jewelry. I intend no offense but giving an opinion. Be nice to have test results posted for educational purposes.
    19. fhrjr2 fhrjr2, 8 years ago
      You are 100% right about the acid test. It is simply a starting point and the same point the jeweler would begin with. I suspect if a jeweler examined this ring he would hand it back without testing it. If you enlarge the photo's of this piece it speaks of costume jewelry. I intend no offense but giving an opinion. Be nice to have test results posted for educational purposes.
    20. cherman, 8 years ago
      Thanks everyone! I will post back when I have results from a jeweler.
    21. kyratango kyratango, 8 years ago
      In my opinion, it is a quality piece, the enamel though damaged is very well done, the lapis is beautiful!

      I'm really curious about the hallmark, hoping your jewellery will be able to decipher it!

      Welcome to CW :-)
    22. IVAN49 IVAN49, 8 years ago
      Most professional jewelers are not very familiar with marks.
      In this particular case only electronic testing seems reliable.

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