The Hamm’s Scene-o-Rama was a sign ahead of its time. Made by Lakeside Plastics in Minneapolis in the late 1960s through early 1970s, it features an outdoor scene with a waterfall and river that appear to flow, as well as a smoking campfire. The motion effect comes from an outer, semi-transparent scroll and an inner, vertically lined background that gives the water (and campfire smoke) the illusion of flowing.
“Many urban legends surround the Scene-o-Rama.”
There are two sizes, small (which is about 3-feet across) and large (5-feet across). The large came in two versions, one with a static, non-moving scene and one with the rotating scroll. The signs all have dimensional, dark brown roof shingles above the scene. I’ve seen people assume all larger signs have motion, so always double-check by unscrewing the casing and inspect the inner workings before you buy one. There are other variations, such as a “round logo” Scene-o-Rama, which has the words Hamm’s beer in a round, white logo panel. This version is harder to find than the typical square logo version.
Many urban legends surround the Scene-o-Rama, like a disgruntled artist hiding a profanity somewhere in the artwork of the Northwoods scroll because he got stiffed on payment. Or, these signs are worth thousands of dollars and are incredibly rare. It may be that I’m in Minnesota, and am constantly seeking old beer stuff, but these signs aren’t rare. Desirable, yes. Rare, no.
Buying: Unless these signs were boxed up or displayed in a non-bar environment their entire life, they probably sustained some sort of wear or age during their decades of service. Check the underside of the case: Too many people underestimate the weight of a Scene-o-Rama, and the case can crack easily when picked up. Check the roof panels for cracking or corner breakage. How can you tell if its been in a smoky bar? The white side panels will be yellowed as well as the Hamm’s logo panel. Some Armor All will whiten them up. The case removes easily—take the screws out and inspect the guts of your sign. You can clean the logo panel from the front using Q-tips to get between the black lattice. Inspect the scene carefully. Horizontal scratches are commonplace because Lakeside Plastic used screws to hold the clear acrylic cover over the scene—grrr! If possible, buy your sign in person. Internet auctions will generally disappoint, whether it’s through definition (“Mint!”) or delivery (“I thought I packed it well … sorry!”).
Selling: You may be tempted by the bucks these get online, but there’s a 50/50 chance that the delivery service will damage, if not destroy, your sign.The insurance claim process is as fun as a root canal. Many of these signs have survived 40 years intact, only to be trashed in transit. Don’t say you weren’t warned …
Replacement parts are available for these signs, and there’s no better feeling than rescuing and restoring an old Hamm’s sign back to its original glory. The motion is truly mesmerizing, and brings back memories of sitting with my dad at our local hamburger joint as a kid. From the land of sky blue waters, I’m Barry the beerguy.
(Breweriana collector Barry Travis runs IBuyOldBeer.com: Preserving the Beers of Yesteryear. You can find him on Show & Tell, too.)
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Hi there! I have a scene o Rama with the flowing river n camp scene. Everything has been running excellent for years and just recently I’m hearing a small single click noise coming from the sign. I took the back apart to check the reels and to see if the motor was making the noise.Sounds like its coming from the bulb. It happens every 20 seconds. I wasn’t sure if I should try and replace the bulbs or is this a sign the motor or reels need replacement. I adore this sign! My grandpa left it to me and it breaks my heart to hear it suffer. Any advice? All is appreciated! Thank you
I bought a motor from this web site: http://www.hammsolympiabeersignmotor.com/
The motor was shipped to me quickly and is a perfect fit. Runs nice and quiet, + it is less expensive than other places.
I bought 11 beer signs at a yard sale for $40 of which one of them the “Aged and aged from moon to moon” sign with paper chimney etc. that is almost in perfect condition. I understand that only 100 were made. Is this correct?
Gene Tighe
Incorrect.
I have a Hamms scene-o-rama and the lights and motor work but there is no outer casing. Is there any way a person could find the parts to restore the sign?
Keep scanning Craigslist for a parts sign or find one locally. Your best bet is to buy a NON motion sign and spray paint the side sections white. I’m not aware of anyone foolish enough to risk shipping the casing-its very fragile!
Hi. I have a Scene o rama and I need to get new roof panels. Can anybody help me out?
Can anyone tell me what the correct wattage bulb should be used for the Scene-O-Rama sign? The side light is a 14 watt and the one that is for the motion scene currently is a 5 watt 18″ lamp. The starters are the same for both lamps and read 14w -15w – 20w. Want to know if i can use a 15 watt lamp in place of the 5 watt lamp which I can’t find.
I have a lighted Hamm’s Beer sign that looks like a motion one but it doesn’t have any motion. It has a picture of a man and women holding a beer can leaning on a fence or something. It is the same shape and size of the Scene-O Rama with the straight across plastic roof line and it lights up. I can’t find any information on it. Can you help?
They were made in the same chalet frame as the moving signs were,and are worth about fourth of the value. They made over a dozen static (non-moving) inserts and used a few different logo inserts (also a clock on the left panel in some) There have been a half dozen sold on ebay recently if you want pricing…
http://ibuyoldbeer.com/movingwaters.htm
Thank you so much….You have been very helpful.
I purchased a Hamm’s four sided rotating sign a few months back and love it. One side has a skier with a young women on his shoulders. Another side has clock and the other two show Hamms logo. It’s a lakeside plastics sign. Liked it so much I bought a twin to pair it with but the second sign is in need of some decent rehab. Problem is I can’t figure out how to get inside the sign and don’t want to break anything in the process. Help!!
Hi. I have an Old Style waterfall sign with the 5 deer, a rippler also,
that has a god awful noisy motor. I know these signs are known for being noisy, but I also heard there are newer motors somewhere for sale for these signs.
Would you happen to know of any. If not, would you have a recommendation for a fix for a sign motor?
I can try and crack the motor case and use a better grease or least see what the problem is.
Thanks for any help.
Don
I have the Hamm’s scene-o-rama sign and considered selling, but my father replaced the logo plates with holiday cards. I couldn’t locate the originals but I found a website where I can get all the replacement parts at reasonable prices. Try brewskilights.com. Now I have to decide if I should buy the parts or sell the piece “as is” and tell the buyer where to get the parts. :-)
I have a scene-o-Rama as well, I have the vertical scratch on the scroll. Anyone know where I can get that part? How hard is it to replace?
The corner on the slate roof is broken off and missing, on my 3′ scene o Rama Hamms beer sign. Otherwise it is perfect. How does this effect value?
I have the 1956 Rippler.. unfortunately it was left in a hot car for a day and now the moisture has made the picture look cloudy and tented around the edges. Is there any way to fix this? The motor still works fine. It’s just when it’s off, it doesn’t look good!
I want to replace the flourescent lighting and starters in Hamm’s Scenearama motion sign with some kind of rope lighting. Will this work or has anything like this ever been done?
You may have to experiment a bit to get a uniform lighting effect, but I’d think it would work. probably easier than replacing all the lighting and starters!
I recently bought a 65 inch scenearama sign. The five bulbs were all missing. I was hoping someone could tell me the proper size and wattage of the bulbs and where I might purchase them. Thank you
Yes I do. From left to right-
F15T8
F14T8
F15T8
F14T8
F15T8
It also needs 5- FS2 starters. You should buy these in person at a store near you that has them for sale.
I have a much loved 34″ Scenearama that I bought ~10 years ago, a low use sign that was perfect. My wife recently pointed out a scratch developing at the same level as the cross piece above the campfire. I was devastated! I managed to find a new scroll but want to be sure it won’t be damaged in the future. I’m going to take it apart, do some cleaning and lubrication but what am I looking for that could have caused the damage? Your expertise and knowledge on these is greatly appreciated by all. Thanks for Sharing!
For some reason,Lakeside Plastics affixed metal bands that hold each side of the plexiglass with small metal….SCREWS! Ack! The horror! With time or vibration,one of them may loosen,and expose it’s pointy little screen-scratching self to your rotating scene. This is what leaves that horizontal white line and breaks your heart. Since you have to remove the cover anyway, remove those metal bands and the screws that screwed you over,buy a new (clean and scratch free) piece of plexi (20 bucks max) and replace it using SILICONE to affix them. This will greatly improve the look and function, while eliminating future heartbreak.
I guess I’m a bit of a purist, the thought of using silicone on this frightens me as much as the screws! My Plexiglas is near perfect. I watched Dr. Hamm’s video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzlU_uOP8M8 and he takes the side screws out. I was unsure if he replaced the metal strips or not but I needed something to hold the plexi against the frame so I did a slight concave bend to the side strips which are held in place by the top and bottom strips which are screwed in but there is no possible interference with the scroll.
My scratch was intermittent and worst near the tent, especially in the dark area between the flaps, and near the birch by the seam. The more I look at it the more I think the scratch was from the inside because it didn’t show where the screen ends overlapped, definitely a thicker spot on the outside, and both side screws were snug. I’m suspecting the reflector inside the scroll behind the bulb. It’s very close to the back scroll on the left. ….. but then I’ve been wrong before, ask my wife.
hey folks! I work in a craft brewery in the mid atlantic and am a elecrtomechanical hobbiest. I’m looking for general information on how these signs actually work because we are thinking about making a modern recreation for our own brand. I understand the general concept of how the effect is created but Iwould love to see some pictures of the signs internal mechinisms. and a general explination of the rippling water effect. if anyone out there would be willing to share this knowledge with me, I would be greatly thankful. I can be Emailed at PJseay@gmail.com thank you so very much.
Hey folks,
I have a 34″ scene-o-rama with the campsite/waterfalls, and was wondering: How do you know what year this is? Mine has serial #2824227 on the LSP sticker with a Teamsters sticker next to it. Also, mine does NOT have two birch trees, but a single tree next to a pine where the seam is. My Dad acquired this particular sign when he worked for a distributor in N. MN during the 60’s into the early 70’s, where I joined him numerous times on his deliveries. The only issue with this sign, other than some small cracking around some of the screws is the scroll has the horizontal scratches nearly center screen. Thanks!
Robert,
These signs were all made by Lakeside plastics between 1968 and 1973.
Hi
Two things – 1 has anyone found a good plastic repair material to fix a TV rippler. Mine has a hole in the side and 2- how rare is the Hamms bear helicopter sign. I found a near mint one but cant seem to find any others for sale to get a general value Thanks
I recently renovated a bar in the San Fernando Valley here in California, bought all their antique signs and lights and this 3′ sign o Rama was amongst the treasure. I love it and the memories it invokes, my question is, I believe there is a version of this sign that has a voice over attached to it when turned on?
That could only happen if these were involved:
A.)Schizophrenia
B.) an internal (aftermarket) Walkman…or
C.) drugs
Just kidding. There has never been a prototype or production sign made with sound by Hamms. That us beer geeks are aware of, anyway.
Do you know if Lakeside Plastics ever made a 5 ft. Scene-O-Rama for Pabst? Or if anyone has? Thanks.
My Dad brought home the large Hamm’s Scene-o-rama sign in about 1973 from a retail store. It hung in his garage workshop until 1994 when he passed in down to me. I hung it but never turned it on until I gave it a cautious cleaning in 2004. I’m in the starting phase of turning my one car garage into a Man Cave and this will be the centerpiece over the bar.
Everything is in great condition but now the scene does not rotate. How can I determine if it is the motor or something else? I’m not real “handy” but could a simple volt meter tell me if the motor is working? Much Thanks.
Greetings, folks – I have the outside case and pic of a Rainier rippler, this one is an evening shot of the mountain with what appears to be freeway headlights twinkling in the dark valley. We were in the process of cleaning and restoring, and the inner parts were apparently given to Goodwill along with other items by mistake. I am devastated as this sign has a lot of sentimental value, and I am not sure how but I want to restore it out of respect to our dad.
Can anyone help me find some replacement parts for sale? A pic or drawing of the inner set up would help, as we have only the diagram on the back that is worn with age.
Thank you!
Barry
Have found Hamms lighted sky, changes from word Hamms to stars to beer glasses and back
in good condition and works. Has fence on front and says Land of Sky Blue Waters.
Local so no shipping. Estimate on what I should pay for it ??
Greatly appreciated, Gary
I just purchased the long Hamms motion sign with the clock and it has a few lines that run though the scene. Is there a way to fix the white lines?
I’m an artist for my actual “day job” and would consider this nearly impossible, as the scene varies so much in color and opacity. You could attempt it…maybe a multi pack of Sharpies might be something to start with? You can’t make it much worse…
I have the Hamm’s Starry Nights that has the fence in front, does anyone have that part for sale.
Hi I’m looking at a 34″ scene o Rama that looks like it has been in a bar for awhile some point in its life. My question is how to clean the yellowish nicotine stains off the white side pieces? It also runs backwards, is that hard to fix? Thanks!
Hey Barry, Great site!! My dusk to dawn sign stopped working. Opened it up to find the plastic gear is broken. Do you have any parts or suggestions? THANK YOU
Hi Jeff,
I have the parts to repair your Hamm’s sign and also offer a repair and restoration service on these signs. Contact me at miner@bevcomm.net
Thanks.
Dr. Hamm’s
Steve
I just bought a sceneorama sign and it has a large faded spot on the screen just to the left of the tent. Is there anything that I should be aware of when replacing it?
Hi Bill,
When you get your new scroll, give me a call at 507-525-2858 and I can walk you through the procedure over the phone.
Dr. Hamm’s
Steve
Dr. Hamm’s, I have a large, what appears to be a scene o rama (with clock) that has been sitting in a barn for quite some time and in need of cleaning and repair. I have not opened it up yet, but looks like the tent/canoe/waterfall scene may just be a cutout and not a scroll. Did they make them like that? As far as cleaning the panels (clock and Hamm’s logo, they are covered with a lot of dirt and dust and looks like it may have been in a smoky room. What is the best way to clean the panels (logo & clock) as I am wondering if using liquids on them will smear or ruin the surface of them?
Thanks, John
John-they made both moving scene and static (non moving insert) signs in both big and small sizes. You can easily pop the cover off (4 screws) and can tell for sure that way. The moving signs have 2 inner scrolls, mechanism/motor and the scene will be translucent and have a lined background. Regarding the logo and clock,you’ll want to keep them intact if possible. I’ve found that using Armor All will shine them up nicely without disturbing the images. If they are “smoked” from being in a bar, that is tough to remove. And if you chose to buy replacement scenes, buy both,so they match. Otherwise the replacement will stick out with its snowy white background. Armor All works great on the roof shingles too.
Dr. Hamm’s, Thanks for the info on my previous question, and the Armor All worked pretty slick, but may still need to replace due to the smoke yellowing. Started the process of trying to rehab some things with the light and came across a few other questions. Is there a glue or adhesive that would work on this type of plastic (i.e. roof shingles) that would adhere pieces together as well as fixing cracks. A few of the plastic screw holders are broke off from the shingles and I was going to try and fix, but not sure if it is possible to fix. I know Super Glue does not work as I have tried that before. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also, the plexiglass, including the white frosted, has marks from the heat of the bulbs over time. Do you have plexi parts on hand along with clock hands, and possibly all three panels?
Thanks, John
Hi John,
I use 3M Super Strength Adhesive on these and it works quite well. Pretty hard to repair the screw knobs on the roof panel so that they hold. They have to be reglued at the exact angle in order to line back up with the holes in the case. If they are all broken, I use a plastic glue gun and just run a bead of plastic down the rib on the back side of the panel and reattach it that way. I do have roof panels both original and repaired also. I also have all the parts to replace your heat stained panels on hand. Check out our website at ibuyoldbeer. com for a complete list of parts. Thanks.
I just picked up a hams scene-o-rama and the bulb behind the hamms faceplate was gone, I think it might take either a f14t8/d or a f14t8cw, Is this correct and which one should I use. Thanks for you help
The bulb on the left side of the small Scene-O-Rama should be a F14T12. I personally like the daytime bulbs as they are brighter but a Cool Whiye bulb will also work and isn’t quite as bright.
Wow! What a great resource here! I’m going to Fox Lake, IL to pick up my grandparent’s scene-o-rama that hung in their family room for decades. I fell asleep to it every time I visited and it’s now being handed down to me. Just wanted to say thank you for keeping this board up. Hoping I’ll be able to report the sign is in working order when I pick it up. -Tim
Wow…100 comments. Proof of the love for Hamm’s advertising and nostalgia that exists out there. If you have further questions, need advice or parts, or have questions on dates or values-contact Dr. Hamms (Stevan Miner) at miner@bevcomm.net. Thanks everyone!