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The definition of a good shirt depends on where and how it will be worn. If you're getting in a round of golf with some friends, then a Burberry, Lacoste, or Izod polo shirt is probably perfect. Office attire may demand a handsome Thom Browne...
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The definition of a good shirt depends on where and how it will be worn. If you're getting in a round of golf with some friends, then a Burberry, Lacoste, or Izod polo shirt is probably perfect. Office attire may demand a handsome Thom Browne oxford or perhaps a tasteful print from Emporio Armani. And if you are just hanging around the house on the weekend, a vintage plaid or two-tone from Campus or McGregor is probably as formal as you want to get. That said, when it comes to a good dress shirt, there are a few things to look for. Turndown collars should have removable bones, the yoke or back of the shirt at the neck should be split (this is a particularly costly detail if a pattern needs to be matched), and the sleeve should be pleated where it meets the cuff. Cotton is the favored fabric, and weaving styles include poplin, Oxford, and pinpoint, which is a combination of the two. For the best suits, well-dressed Englishmen head to London’s Savile Row. For the best shirts, Jermyn Street is their destination. Turnbull & Asser requires a minimum order of six shirts, with a delivery time of 12 weeks. New & Lingwood is famous for its brightly striped shirts. And while the tailors at Harvie & Hudson can make you a jacket and pair of pants, they are best known for their shirts. That’s the formal stuff. For casual wear, perhaps the most collectible category of vintage men’s shirt is the Hawaiian shirt, particularly those made during the 1930s, ’40s, and ’50s. Many were made of cold rayon, so-called for its cool, silky feel against the skin, but lots of Hawaiian shirts came in a more textural crepe de chine rayon, as well as cotton and silk. Patterns ranged from vibrantly colored tropical floral prints to scenes of Hawaii to abstract, monochromatic designs. Vertical patterns that create a border at the buttons and buttonholes are especially prized, and collectible labels include Surfrider Sportswear, Catalina, Kahanamoku, Kamehameha, Kahala, Hale Hawaii,...
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