Vintage Mens Suits and Blazers

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To bring a bit of irreverent perspective to the suit, let’s begin with Mark Twain, who had his tailor make 14 identical suits out of white serge, a high-quality woven wool, so that he could wear a clean one every day. He called them his “don't...
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To bring a bit of irreverent perspective to the suit, let’s begin with Mark Twain, who had his tailor make 14 identical suits out of white serge, a high-quality woven wool, so that he could wear a clean one every day. He called them his “don't give a damn” suits, but obviously the great writer did give a damn, otherwise he would not have gone to so much trouble. About 100 years later, another author, Tom Wolfe, also embraced the white suit, only this time it was in the service of premeditated dandyhood. What is it about America authors and white suits? We can’t answer that question, but we can tell you that by the turn of the 20th century, the three-piece suit was common for travel and everyday wear. Men were expected to wear tails for dinner, but jackets, vests, and pants (in other words, a three-piece suit), with a shirt secured by a necktie, were the rule for daywear. Since a buttoned jacket with lapels has become a staple of semi-formal wear, many have used the terms “suit jacket,” “blazer,” and “sport coat” interchangeably, yet each has its own distinctive characteristics and history. The most formal of the three is the suit jacket, often made from a fine wool or cotton and worn with matching pants of the same material. In contrast, sport coats were traditionally tweed jackets used when hunting, riding horses, or other land-based sporting activities and weren’t intended to be worn with matching pants. One early style of sport coat was originally called the Norfolk jacket, and included a belt and buckle around the waist to hold it in place. Other versions have included elbow patches to prevent the sleeves from tearing while participating in vigorous outdoor activities. Blazers also originated as part of an athletic uniform, specifically the “blazing red” jackets worn by the Lady Margaret Boat Club at St John’s College at the University of Cambridge. Rowers adopted the colorful and boldly patterned outerwear—often featuring stripes, contrasting...
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