Posted 8 years ago
racer4four
(586 items)
These two wonderful silver brooches look very similar but in fact have a number of differences.
Please excuse my descriptions: I'm not on top of the correct terms for jewellery parts and styles yet!
The green stone brooch (stone unknown) is bezel set, with a patterned ring around the bezel.
The leaves are on a single small stem with one berry between them.
It has an upright hinge and simple C catch.
It has STERLING in tiny letters stamped on the back of the frame but no other stamps.
The brown stone (chalcedony?) brooch has a prong set stone. The leaves are on individual stems and two small berries on their own stems are between the leaves. It has a flat hinge and safety clasp.
It has no stamps that I could find but tests as silver.
I love them both and have worn them alone and together.
Who made them? Some would say Instone but perhaps these are also from Shipton and Co like my blue ring. Perhaps someone else.
I'm happy to hear any comments or directions thanks friends and jewellery lovers.
Karen,
They're both pretty amazing looking.
Great A&C brooches Karen...I like both too. Cabachons are my favorite over faceted stones. Unless they're diamonds of course. Nice to see you're delving into jewelry. I haven't been finding much since my friend quit at Salvation Army. I have plenty already but things will still catch my eye when they show up. So I haven't given up entirely. :)
Hi Karen, the brown stone is actually orange carnelian. Kyra will know for sure.
The brooch with a single berry is german. I know because I have a lovely little ring with a domed lapis in it by the same maker with German stamped on it. It has the same leaves with the little curl at the end & same bezel setting (which is also often seen on English jewellery of the same period).
Not sure about the carnelian one, but I am sure neither of them are Instone or Shiptons.
I love them. :-))))
I love them both Karen, beautiful!!
Many thanks, as always, Scott for your comment and love.
It must be such a difference for you Mike not seeing and buying good jewellery, and lots of it, from your op shops. I'm sure some will appear soon knowing your touch!
Thanks for the love here - I too prefer a cab!
Thanks again Jewels. German! - so interesting to me as a newby.
It just shows that styles are transferred from region to region and although similar they can actually be very different. It happens a lot in my usual world of art glass.
I am not concerned about knowing who made my jewellery, just interested, so the info you give me is great thanks.
Carnelian - that's probably what I meant.....lol.
Ohhh thanks Bonnie, oh Queen of Silvery Things!!
Thanks too Judy :)
I like to see the two brooches side-by-side. This way one can really make out the differences:)
They're lovely! Could the green stone be aventurine?
These are lovely. There's been a lot of A&C items here lately, which is just fine by me. The conversations about the items are really interesting. Reading Jewels and Jean's excellent knowledge, (and others of course-the Australian connections) and the questions posed are fascinating. Truly. Yesterday I went on a Shipton exploration - I enjoy learning about all the history, and the research being done here.
Thanks for posting these racer4four.
mmmmmm.Those are GOOD!
Hi Karen, the Germans were the powerhouse of art jewellery during this period. In addition to the schools & artist colonies who taught and made hand-made jewellery, they also had one of the larger jewellery manufacturing centres and also a major stone cutting & polishing centre.
They exported jewellery and gems all around the world. They made Anglo-German jewellery for he English market, Nouveau jewellery for the French market and Jungendstil jewellery for the German market. In addition to producing a lot of non-art jewellery for those markets.
Firms like Farhner had different departments or lines of jewellery. Hand-made art jewellery which was exhibited at the Paris Salons & other major exhibits, a machine-made (but artist designed) range for the art minded & emerging middle classes and a base metal line which was entirely mass produced (& often unmarked). They employed some of the best german designers of the period.
Other German firms were like the Zara of the period. They subscribed to the catalogues of the Paris Salon exhibits and copied those artist designed pieces. No one knows if they actually bought the rights to them but it was not unusual for a french designer to have their designs made up by a well known french maker, then have variations made by German firms. Usually they are all slightly different variations of the same design. So I often see German jewellery misattributed as being French or, sometimes, English.
Collecting German jewellery of this period is really interesting, I've bought some beautiful pieces recently. I post them when I've got a mo.
Also, I have some more info on your brooches which I will post later.
PS, the enamel butterfly on my posts is German. I love plique (transparent) enamelling and while it is most commonly associated with French jewellery (the name plique-a-jour is French), it was mostly produced by German firms.
Freiheit, thank you. It is good to have a ready comparison!
Pebble it may well be and I will look that up. I admit to huge gaps in my knowledge re stones. Thanks for that!
It's awesome isn't it Gillian to see so much and learn from generous people here on CW.
All this jewellery is new to me so I'm learning from every comment.
Thanks for your comment!
Jewels you are a generous sharer of your knowledge and an asset to us all here.
I always thought your plique-a-jour brooch French.....I will now need to keep my mind more open. Fascinating info about the Germans and when I get more time (work is mad at the moment) I will read more. In the meantime I will enjoy the posts and comments from everyone.
These are lovely, so wearable...:-)
They are Inky! Thanks ;))
Bet you look fabulous wearing these. [;>)
lovely broochs and very interesting comments
Whoaah! 2 brooches!!!
The green stone is amazonite, and the red is indeed carnelian.
I'd say Shipton for both, but Jewels1900 is the referee in this area of jewellery!!! :-)
The design of setting and fittings evolved, Shipton still make a Arts and crafts inspired line, see there:
http://www.shiptonandco.com/brooches-c10/arts-crafts-inspired-cornelian-brooch-p2655
http://www.shiptonandco.com/brooches-c10/malachite-brooch-p2820
Another amazonite so similar to yours (wrongly described as chrysoprase):
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/302068416257?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I have a citrine one (marked silver too) that i'll post now for showing how versatile it can be :-)
Here it is!
http://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/205165-shipton-or-german-arts-and-crafts-inspir?in=user
Ohh Kyra. That Shipton reference is a find. I think that answers the question as to why these brooches are so similar but slightly different. Looking at the new Shipton version, it is has a roll clasp. All period brooches have a c clasp. Also, malachite is not period.
So, I'd say Karen's brooch with the ammonite is period (which has the same leaf as my ring). And the carnelian with the roll clasp is a modern Shipton version.
It's interesting because I've not noted these brooches with the roll clasp. It's possible I've not looked at them more recently though.
Karen, you're in luck. I got out my jewels today to consider something Paul recently told me so I dug out my German ring & some pieces of Shipton which I'll post for you so keep an eye out.
Also my plique butterfly is a buckle. I also took some photos of my plique, keep an eye open for my new bit of plique which I'll post later tonight. I'll include a photo so you'll get an idea of how big it is.
Thanks KJ and Kivantiz for the love.
Valentino I am awed at the knowledge and information shown here.
Kyra thanks so much for your searching and references, and it makes so much sense.
So I have a vintage ammonite brooch from Germany, and a newer carnelian brooch from Shipton and Co.
You and Jewels are fantastic!
Thanks so much; so interesting!!
Thanks again Jewels. I'm looking forward to your posts!
Karen, the green stone is amazonite, ammonite is an opalised shell :-)
Perhaps a auto correct bug ;-)
I hope it was Kyra, maybe just dopiness :)
You deserve all the loves and information here. You give so much to others. No doubt you will catch on quickly!! Smart as a whip you are. (Is that the right accent)? ;)
Yeah mate! All good. Thanks OGF for that lovely comment.
Wow Stunning post Karen .....and the Info !! Congrats to you
It's been a great response thanks Rose!
These are simply beautiful, Karen.